{"id":21290,"date":"2020-02-24T16:24:46","date_gmt":"2020-02-24T16:24:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cardiffstudentmedia.co.uk\/quench\/?p=21290"},"modified":"2020-02-27T11:45:19","modified_gmt":"2020-02-27T11:45:19","slug":"review-milkwood-pontcanna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cardiffstudentmedia.co.uk\/quench\/food-and-drink\/review-milkwood-pontcanna\/","title":{"rendered":"Review: Milkwood, Pontcanna"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Words by Peter Wolinski<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the show Harry and Paul<\/em>, there’s one sketch where Harry Enfield plays a long\nhaired, artistic bloke who runs a boutique in a gentrified area of London\ncalled “I saw you coming”. He sells cheap tat to the pre-2010s stereotype of an\nupper middle class \u00d4\u00c7\u00ffyummy mummy’ who is glad to pay vastly inflated prices for\nsomething relatively worthless, so long as she believes it’s organic or\nresponsibly sourced or whatever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The setting of the sketch is what Pontcanna\nreminds me of now. Only the archetypal yummy mummies are often actually yummy\ndaddies \u00d4\u00c7\u00ffcause, well, it’s not 2008 anymore. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

” Pontcannonians are so middle class that they don’t see the need to go to work until Wednesday”<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

To get to Pontcanna’s delicatessens, shops and\nboutiques, you fight your way through endless badly parked Porsches and\ngossiping stay-at-home parents milling about on the pavements only to find\nthat, if it’s a Monday or Tuesday, they’re all closed. Pontcannonians are so\nmiddle class that they don’t see the need to go to work until Wednesday.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thankfully, the guys at Milkwood are hard-working sorts and stay open six days a week. They don’t open on Tuesday lunchtimes, admittedly, but at least they’re proletarian enough to turn up eventually, even if it is in the evening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The restaurant has made the Michelin Guide\nagain for 2020 and is described by both the tyre merchants and the restaurant\nthemselves as a modern British bistro with a variety of influences. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And a variety there are. Milkwood’s two chefs\nwere trained in the same Italian kitchen, a fact borne out in the number of\nItalic classics found on the menu. But there’s a myriad of other cuisines\nchucked in there too. These stretch from the conspicuously Gallic confit duck\nto the less obviously placed pappardelle (also duck) which is, in fact, an\nAsian-Italian fusion. More on that dish later. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yet their wide range is not, to my mind, their\nstandout feature. In my opinion, it is their thrifty-as-heck lunch menu which\nwins them some brownie points; the Plat\ndu Jour<\/em> if you fancy impressing your mates or dates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

” It wouldn’t be a bistro without being cheap”<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

What’ll impress them even more if you decide\nto split the bill, is that for just \u252c\u00fa19 you can have three courses (\u252c\u00fa21 if you\nadd a glass of wine) of food that the Frenchies deem to be good enough to put\nin their guide. It wouldn’t be a bistro without being cheap, after all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, in the post-festive poverty of January, the\npartner and I decided to get some bang for our bucks. We initially tried a\nwalk-in on a Monday. Then on a Tuesday. Enraged at the bourgeoisie, we just\nbooked in for a Saturday. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The interior is a relaxed and airy affair.\nTall, white walls, a huge frontage window harbouring some jaunty hanging lamps\nand a great big art deco bar that would’ve been right at home in The Great Gatsby<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First course was a ramekin of artichoke chips,\nburied by the chef under enough grated parmesan to suggest the recent consumption\nof one too many murder documentaries. At first they crunched, before breaking a\nmoment later into a wave of fiery truffle and a 1-2 nut combo of parmesan and\nartichoke. To keep things sensible, a second ramekin of aioli was placed\nadjacently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Artichoke chips <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next was pappardelle and duck ragu. What I was\nexpecting here and what I received were two wildly different things. Naturally,\nI had envisaged a Venetian classic: fresh pappardelle with a tomato-based\nsauce, packed full of unctuous, tasty Daffy. What I was served instead was an\nItalian-Asian fusion: fresh pappardelle with a (maybe) tomato-based sauce,\npacked full of unctuous, tasty Daffy but also featuring a quantity of fennel\nand star anise sufficient to floor a buffalo. It was explosively tasty,\nfantastically cooked and, at first, a nice surprise. There was, however, enough\nduck to make it a real struggle to finish, and I was left for six hours with a\ntaste of aniseed stronger than if I’d downed a bottle of sambuca. Certainly not\na dish for the faint-hearted\/stomached. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Pappardelle and duck ragu <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When what I needed most was an intravenous\nsupply of sugar to counteract the amount of duck fat and anise I had just\nconsumed, Milkwood came through with the next best thing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The chocolate tart I ordered was not, I\nconfess, on the Plat-du-Jour (\u252c\u00fa2 extra – main menu), but oh was it worth it.\nI’ve cooked and\/or eaten a lot of chocolate tarts in my time but cannot ever\nremember eating one as dense and indulgent as this. So thick was it, and so\nheavy, that if you chucked a piece of it at a window, I reckon the window would\ncome off worse. There was some rhubarb on the plate too and a dollop of creme\nfraiche somewhere, which helped things along, but both paled into\ninsignificance compared to the only thing on the plate which really mattered:\nthat tart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Chocolate tart<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So my visit to Milkwood turned out to be quite\nunexpected. They gave me an almost lethal dose of duck fat and rekindled\npreviously repressed memories of aniseed-flavoured, sambuca-induced teenage\nvomiting. However, these were just issues of quantity. What matters more is\nthat they served me the finest chocolate tart I think I have ever eaten. Didn’t\nsee that coming.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Words by Peter Wolinski On the show Harry and Paul, there’s one sketch where Harry Enfield plays a long haired, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":650,"featured_media":21296,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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