{"id":22134,"date":"2020-04-06T12:07:32","date_gmt":"2020-04-06T11:07:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cardiffstudentmedia.co.uk\/quench\/?p=22134"},"modified":"2020-04-06T12:07:33","modified_gmt":"2020-04-06T11:07:33","slug":"review-dark-castle-arcade","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cardiffstudentmedia.co.uk\/quench\/food-and-drink\/review-dark-castle-arcade\/","title":{"rendered":"Review: DARK, Castle Arcade"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

By Peter Wolinski<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The best time to go out for food in Wales is\nwhenever the Welsh rugby team are playing. This is especially true when you’ve\nbeen a complete dribble of a restaurant critic for three months. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dark, no longer the newest establishment in\nthe Dusty Knuckle diaspora, was brand new when I originally told the food\neditor I’d review it. By the time I visited, the restaurant was pushing\nfour-months-old and the owners had already expanded to a further two\nestablishments. Numerous friends and pounds somehow managing to escape, as well\nas a frustratingly busy MA, had turned me into a late, apologetic shambles of a\nreviewer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Never mind, at least the menu had changed\nsince every other food writer in Cardiff had paid them a visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’ve not heard of Dusty Knuckle, they’re\na pizza pop-up turned pop-down-permanently-in-as-many-locations-as-we-can-find\nsort of venture. Not satisfied with their popular stall in Cardiff’s Boneyard\nmarket, they set up in both Pembrokeshire and Ogmore-by-Sea. Then, back in the\ncapital, they partnered with the owners of Nook<\/a> on Cowbridge Road before opening Dark in\nCastle Arcade. Since then, they’ve acquired the old Gatekeeper’s bungalow at\nthe edge of Bute Park and, in early March, set up a residency in the Sticky\nFingers street food bar, Cathays. These guys are unstoppable, and clearly have\na very generous bank manager; two things I long to say for myself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite my uselessness, eventually the time\ndid become nigh. Cardiffians were all frothing at the mouth watching two of six\nangry nations charge each other into brain damage, meaning Dark’s tiny cover\ncount was almost entirely free.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
DARK, Castle Arcade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After receiving a vivacious greeting, we\nsquished ourselves into a two-seater table in the corner. Despite most covers\nbeing free, the larger tables were held for groups. When you’re juggling barely\nmore than 20 indoor seats, I suppose it is a necessity to play Tetris with the\npunters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Menus before us, the initial debate was\nwhether to get our own kebabs, commendably hosted where one would normally\nexpect to find starters. Due to an already dodgy stomach, I instead petitioned\nsuccessfully for a pizza to share and a small plate each, giving us ample\nopportunity to try both of Dark’s much-touted sustainable specialties: offal\nand seasonal veg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Broccoli, chilli and roasted garlic pizza was\ndelivered first, our failsafe. Velvety roasted garlic, a thwack of chilli and\nsome sweet, al-dente broccoli turned it into a more refined and composite\naffair than the average pizza and, despite only 7 or 8 meagre pearls of\nMozzarella on top, it reinforced the usual public consensus that these guys can\nstonebake with the best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Broccoli, chilli and roasted garlic pizza <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The partner’s order was vegetarian and\nseasonal. Jerusalem artichoke with fermented leeks and Spain’s ajo blanco\n(garlic and almonds, blended and loosened to a consistency anywhere between\npuree and soup). It was a much cleverer dish than it may perhaps sound;\npowerful, nosey, umami leeks are an effective way to dissect the double helping\nof artichoke and ajo blanco’s creamy nuttiness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Jerusalem artichoke with fermented leeks and Spain’s ajo blanco <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Before I get into my laughably misjudged\norder, I must stress that I was extremely well warned and lay no blame on Dark.\nThey are trying to push the boat out by using a sauce well established in Asia\nalthough totally unfamiliar here. For my palette, it just didn’t work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

My quest to test their offal led me to\ncasually disregard the waitress’ three incredibly overt warnings of “table\ndivider<\/em><\/strong>“, “fermented shrimp<\/em><\/strong>” and, perhaps most tellingly of all, “don’t\nsniff it<\/em><\/strong>“. In hindsight, attempting to eat this after already turning\ndown a kebab on behalf of a tentative stomach was pretty stupid, but what are\nreviewers supposed to do if not be adventurous?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first two elements of the plate seemed\nreasonable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chicken hearts: chewy little nuggets, cooked\nexquisitely and, as if they were still beating, pumping out juices when prodded\nwith a fork. Fine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sourdough bread: dough, baked for a period of\ntime. Eaten by humans for millennia and an unquestionably safe bet. Also fine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

XO sauce, however: shrimp, fermented for long\nperiods of time in some godforsaken liquid, resulting in a sweet, rich taste\nthat simultaneously shoots the unaware eater bolt upright with the smell of\nconcentrated dog’s breath the morning after a fish dinner. Categorically not\nfine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I can only assume the sauce’s name comes from\nthe face which many others in my position before me have pulled when trying to\neat it. I managed only two bites. Thankfully there was enough chilli on our\npizza to act as a palette cleanser. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The controversial offal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To undo my self-inflicted trauma, there was\nnothing else to do but order dessert. The waitress, by now somewhat deflated\nand clearly thinking (rightly) that I was a complete drip, made a point of\nwarning me of the “very intense<\/em><\/strong>” coffee flavour in the coffee and ricotta pot.\nSadly, this was not actually true, although for \u252c\u00fa3 it was just a relief to be\neating something inoffensive and familiar. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Coffee and ricotta pot <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You should definitely go to Dark. Compared to\nthe rest of Cardiff’s culinary scene, they’re doing some really interesting\nthings with underused cuts and experimenting with unfamiliar and otherwise\ndisparate elements. At about \u252c\u00fa17 per head, they’re affordable too. Apply\nlessons learned from my experience to your own, however. When a server has to\ncaveat your order as you place it, pause for thought and ask yourself, “today,\nam I really<\/em> the type of person who\ncan stomach fermented shrimp?” <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Peter Wolinski The best time to go out for food in Wales is whenever the Welsh rugby team are […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":650,"featured_media":22135,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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