Words by Bethan Gwynne
Have you ever looked at a piece of art in a museum that you really liked and thought ÔÇÿthat piece is nice but totally impractical, it would never fit in my living room!’ No? It would be a bit strange to bring a piece of art into your home that was never intended to sit on the wall of a normal living room, wouldnÔÇÖt it? When observing the looks we see walking down the runway, this is the approach we must take. Runway fashion isnÔÇÖt designed to be bought on your local high street or even worn by the glamorous people on red carpets ÔÇô it is there to push creative limits and take trends to the extreme by showcasing ingenious artistry and interpretation by the brand.
As we enter the beginning of the fashion season, with international fashion weeks running throughout February and the Met Gala coming up in May, IÔÇÖm sure weÔÇÖll be seeing plenty of couture looks walking down the runway that will rouse both amazement and confusion from audiences. The couture runway shows weÔÇÖve seen over the years have produced beautiful, well-crafted, but controversial pieces that showcase the brandÔÇÖs talent and innovation in interpreting trends and pushing their limits in terms of creative understanding. If you want to gain a clearer understanding of couture runway shows and the garments they produce, take a look at Alexander McQueenÔÇÖs S/S 2001 ÔÇÿVossÔÇÖ show, Comme de Garcons F/W 2017, or even the most recent and controversial Schiaparelli couture show in Paris a few weeks ago. This popular show saw Daniel RoseberryÔÇÖs presentation of looks inspired by Dante AlighieriÔÇÖs 14th-century work ÔÇÿthe leopard, the lion, and the she-wolf.ÔÇÖ Realistic animal heads handmade with faux fur, resin, and foam adorned the garments that were worn by big names such as Kylie Jenner, Naomi Campbell, and Irina Shayk and left audiences stunned with questions of morality and ethics regarding the show. The runway also gave Roseberry the chance to display excellent works of craftsmanship with beautifully tailored coats, mid-length skirts, and draped dresses that are available in the Schiaparelli ready-to-wear (RTW) S/S 2023 collection. When looking at couture and runway fashion from this angle, we can see the method behind runway madness. Eccentric and elevated looks walk down the runways that are designed to hold the attention of the audience and garner attention surrounding the brand; whilst also showcasing the core foundational looks, pieces, and materials that lie at the heart of the brand and their RTW collections.
It is important to remember that runway fashion isnÔÇÖt created with the intention of pushing and selling specific garments. It is instead designed to push innovative limits, showcase new textiles and fabrics, as well as set a precedent for the designerÔÇÖs creative direction. The runway can act as a mood board that shows an audience the atmosphere and artistic background for the clothing that will actually be available on the shelves. The point of runway fashion is that it acts as an exhibition, and the items of clothing act as a canvas for the designers to present their talents and the craftsmanship that exists within the brand.
