By Emily Jade Ricalton

 

ÔÇÿI am opportunist in the sense that I donÔÇÖt copy what already exists, but what I think things will becomeÔÇÖ ÔÇô Karl Lagerfeld, Vogue Paris

 

On midday February 19th, the fashion world saw one of their most iconic and longest journeys come to a shocking, yet heart-breaking end. Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of the French fashion house, Chanel, has died at the age of 85. According to reports, it is understood that he died in the American Hospital in Paris after being admitted there on February 18 th due to a short period of ill-health.

As quoted by Vogue Paris, Karl was a ÔÇÿvisionaryÔÇÖ who created the ÔÇÿepitome of French eleganceÔÇÖ. He changed the dynamics of fashion, creating designs that will never be forgotten ÔÇô the two-toned shoes, tweed jackets, quilted handbag and the iconic pearled jewellery collections that became symbolic of the Chanel brand. Lagerfeld forever regarded the history of the French brand, giving dedication to the founder, Gabrielle Chanel. He once said, ÔÇÿMy job is not to do what she did, but what she would have done. The good thing about Chanel is it is an idea you can adapt many things toÔÇÖ. He had a respect for fashion that was original, becoming a unique individual that so many cherished. 17-year-old model for Chanel and close friend of Lagerfeld, Kaia Gerber, wrote on Instagram after news broke of his death: ÔÇÿthis one hurts to writeÔǪ the world is more beautiful now because of you. Thank you for everything, no one will ever compare.ÔÇÖ And so she is right, no one did fashion like Karl Lagerfeld did.

The designer was famous for his extravagant fashion shows and flamboyant set designs. Every season he would create exciting, new collections that were shown in exotic locations. His shows, especially with Chanel, always emphasised the dedication that Karl put into his work. Whether this was rebuilding a scale model of the Eiffel Tower at the Grand Palais or hosting a feminist protest during a Spring/Summer ready-to-wear show, Lagerfeld knew how to capture the attention of his audience. As Andre Leon Talley says, American fashion journalist and former editor of American Vogue, ÔÇÿevery moment with Karl was a master class in refinementÔÇÖ. And so it was.

Lagerfeld was born in Hamburg on September 10 th 1933, but later moved to Paris in 1952 after watching his first fashion show within the French fashion capital ÔÇô a Christian Dior show, an experience that would soon change his life forever. It was from here onwards that the German designer became inspired by the fashion industry, encouraging him to discover his first passion: fashion illustration.

After living in Paris for two years, LagerfeldÔÇÖs illustrations caught the attention of Pierre Balmain, founder of the French fashion house Balmain, winning the Secretariat International de La Lain (International Wool Secretariat) competition at the age of just sixteen. It was from here onwards the LagerfeldÔÇÖs contribution to the fashion industry began to flourish. He was soon hired as the personal assistant for Balmain, becoming his apprentice just three years later. After finishing his apprenticeship in 1958, Karl went on to work for Jean Patou, starting his own freelance career alongside his duty as creative director for the French brand. Just five years later, in 1963, Karl had joined the French house, Chloe, producing up to 20 years of ready-to-wear and fine jewellery collections for the designer brand. He created pieces that defined the elegance of Parisian fashion, capturing the bohemian movement of the 1970s through pieces that were luxurious, yet alluringly romantic. It was in the same year of 1983 that Karl made his most beautiful and iconic impression upon the French fashion industry. He had made the move from Chloe to Chanel; one of the most privately held fashion houses in the whole of Paris.

Lagerfeld had reached international fame whilst working for Chanel. It was at the prestigious fashion house that he had created his limelight, becoming the fashion icon that he was known for today. Karl was the symbol of the interlocked ÔÇÿCCÔÇÖ logo, designing contemporary looks that are were loved by so many back then and today. A typical
monogram Chanel bag costs around ┬ú3,000 ($3,909 US Dollars), with a vintage bag pricing at around ┬ú4,000 ($5,500 US Dollars). Karl had brought in a revenue of ┬ú9.7 billion a year ($12.7 billion US Dollars), increasing the value of the products made by the brand. Now, if that doesnÔÇÖt scream fashion icon, then I donÔÇÖt know what does.

Karl began his fashion legacy at Chanel as their creative director,yet still worked continuous hours to create the everlasting dream that he had set for the aesthetic of the brand. His first collection was controversial, but exciting, taking his inspiration from the 20s and 30s in an era of admiration for the 50s. He wanted to sell an appeal of modernity to the brand, whilst having respect for its French heritage. And this is exactly what he did. He had a cosmopolitan vision for fashion, bringing colour and texture to his sketches. His designs were revolutionary to an era of bland creativity. Karl had amerced himself within the fashion industry. In the┬áSpring/Summer collection of January 1987, he photographed ChanelÔÇÖs press books and advertised his own campaigns, giving a personal vision and
creative perspective of the brand itself.

Not only was Lagerfeld running the success of Chanel at the time, but he was also the creative director of the Italian fashion house, ÔÇÿFendiÔÇÖ, taking on this role in 1965 ÔÇô almost 20 years prior to the start of his journey with Chanel. It was he here where he started to experiment with unique fabrics and shapes, deciding to cut down on the amount of fur used within the fashion industry. It was here where he created the slogan ÔÇÿFun FurÔÇÖ, shaping the popularity of the acronym ÔÇÿFFÔÇÖ within his Summer 2015 campaign. This drew attention to faux fur collections, encouraging the admiration of new and improved ethical and environmental designs within fashion.

In news of his death, Vogue Paris wrote ÔÇÿKarl Lagerfeld will forever remain a pillar of the Italian fashion houseÔÇÖ. A statement that emphasises his importance within revolutionising the fashion industry as a whole. His collaborations with both Fendi and Chanel would last to the end of his life. As said by Karl himself, ÔÇÿFendi is my Italian identity, and Chanel is my French.ÔÇÖ He was a man of dedication, respect and trust. He was forever loved by his peers and will forever be adored for his impact upon the creation of abstract designs that obeyed the conventions of Parisian sophistication and style.

Whether Karl will be remembered for his humorous nature, compassion for his work or even his iconic sleek ponytail and black suit and tie, it will most certainly be rare to find someone with such a distinctive vision and electrifying imagination like his. He was truly one of a kind. Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, artistic director of Conde Nast and reputable fashion influencer, Anna Wintour, wrote: ÔÇÿToday the world lost a giant among men. Karl was so much more than our greatest and most prolific designer ÔÇô his creative genius was breath- taking and to be his friend was an exceptional gift. Karl was brilliant, he was wicked, he was funny, he was so generous beyond measure, and he was deeply kindÔǪÔÇÖ. It is clear to say that Karl Lagerfeld- fashion legend, icon, family member and friend – will be so greatly missed by the all of us.

Virginie Viard, director of ChanelÔÇÖs fashion creation studio, will become the new creative director of the fashion house after being LagerfeldÔÇÖs closest collaborator for over 30 years. In statement made by Chanel, Viard hopes to work ÔÇÿso that the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld can live onÔÇÖ. And so it should.