Words By Bethan Gwynne
Far from shy about her stance on political and economical matters in the world, Dame Vivienne Westwood has used her creative platform to display her beliefs on these issues through the interpretive media of fashion. Whether it be subtle, or bold statements with eye-catching slogans on t-shirts, Westwood has never been a designer to remain silent on hot topics that may be circulating the globe. Both on and off the runway, she has become known for her outspoken manner and consistent political statements that appear on her runways.
As far back as 2005, Westwood has been using her clothing as a political vessel. Her SS06 line saw heavy criticism towards anti-terrorism laws that were being put into place as a result of certain events such 9/11 and London Underground suicide bombing in 2005. Her collection featured a t-shirt, of which she herself wore, with the slogan ÔÇ£I am not a terrorist – please don’t arrest me.ÔÇØ She approached the civil rights group Liberty and offered them the design of the t-shirt along with a donation of all profits to anti-terrorist charities. They accepted, and released a statement claiming that the tops were trying to draw attention to government proposals to create new terrorism offences and to allow three months’ detention without charge. WestwoodÔÇÖs marketing of this garment was of extreme genius, as the t-shirts ranged from between ┬ú20 and ┬ú50, opening a whole new demographic in terms of purchasing high fashion amongst the everyday public. A well-known, luxury brand designer label suddenly became accessible, and more people were able to purchase the garment at a more affordable price. This allowed her political statement to become more wide- spread. WestwoodÔÇÖs ability to see this niche in the market and profit from it in terms of promotion of belief and money for her charities was, in my eyes, an ingenious piece of design and marketing; as well an inspiring moment in fashion due to Westwood being unafraid to voice her beliefs.
More recently, Westwood and her team have been making political statements on hot topics such as Brexit and climate change with designs created for both herself to wear and to be worn on the runway. A memorable show for Westwood was her display in her SS16 Red Label collection during London Fashion Week in 2015. She used the stage to showcase her beliefs on PM David CameronÔÇÖs plans for fracking and collection of oil. This was made clear with the runway staged like a protest and placards stating ÔÇ£fracking is a crimeÔÇØ whilst sirens and horns blared. Clashing patterns of florals and tartan were used in an ode to nature, something purposefully done on WestwoodÔÇÖs part to reference the effect of fracking on the environment and its effect on climate change. The designs on the SS16 runway were of looser outlines, including flowing skirts and signature Westwood draping in the form of apron tops and dresses. She also used more tactile and simple fabrics such as wool and silk to showcase the natural element of the show and keep the simple yet chic idea of the protest against the PMÔÇÖs plans that were going to impact the environment in an unchangeable way.
The most recent show of WestwoodÔÇÖs to hit the runway was her joint display of AW19 menÔÇÖs and womenswear during LFW 2019. After two years previous of only digital presentations from Westwood, the fashion community waited with anticipation to see what she had to offer ÔÇô and they were not disappointed. Westwood incorporated an array of political messages into her show, with it appearing that the politics and theatrics of the show had become more important than the presentation and design of the collection. Whilst there were, again, signature Vivienne Westwood herringbone and tartan prints, loose outlines and grunge inspired slogans and accessories; the focal point of the show was the political motives. Throughout, there appeared an unheard-of display of small speeches and soliloquies made by the models on the catwalk. The #MeToo movement was commended with key activist Rose McGowan, sporting knee-high metallic boots and a crown emblazoned with ÔÇÿAngelÔÇÖ across the front, showing the survivors and the people that came forward in the movement were to be praised. Climate change was addressed with models making statements about the sustainability of the fashion industry, such as ÔÇ£fashion is all about styling, buy less, choose well, make it last,ÔÇØ with messages about sustainability written across t-shirts and accessories.
Though the show was criticised for being disjointed and unclear about WestwoodÔÇÖs plans for tackling the issues she promoted during the show, I think we can all admire her for attempting to raise awareness about serious problems that we, as the world, are not taking seriously enough. Her consistent political messages incorporated throughout her shows display her clear fire and drive for trying to make a positive change in the fashion world as well as the real one. She wanted to give a voice to those who perhaps do not have the platform to do so. Her passion for change is ultimately a reason why we should regard Dame Vivienne Westwood as a British fashion icon and an innovator in our world of using fashion as a force for change.