Words and Images by Kate Nichols

The designer brand PRONOUNCE was established by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou in 2016. During London Fashion Week, I attended the Autumn/Winter 2023 PRONOUNCE Catwalk in Regent Quarter and witnessed the ÔÇÿNew Stroke OrderÔÇÖ collection showcase.

The collection was inspired by ancient Chinese methods of communication, such as oracle bone scripts and Chinese knotting. Actual knotting techniques were used to decoratively outline the necklines and pockets of sweatshirts and jackets whilst oversized knot designs in illustrations of black, orange, blue and purple swirled around on scarves and sweaters. Large ancient Chinese characters were also used to appealingly decorate trench coats, sweaters, button-up shirts, and trousers.

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Mao suits and trench coats looked as if they had been torn apart and then repaired again, with the designers using patterned fabrics and metallic stitches to complete the distressed look and give a rough edge to the pieces. The location complimented the designs with its raw urban edge of white paint-peeling walls and cracked concrete floors.

The collection featured all gender-neutral clothing, demonstrating the ability to bridge the gap between clothing stereotypically designed for either men or women. Each outfit, combining baggy trousers with button-up shirts, sweatshirts, knitwear, long trench coats, blazers, and Mao suits, made each piece on the runway unisex. In doing so, the brand embraced a more inclusive approach to fashion and a more environmentally conscious one too.

You can learn more about the designer brand by following them on Instagram (@_pronounce).