Words by Katie Storrie
Born in a prominent time in history of social change and reform, Dr. Martens have played a huge part in the evolution of youth fashion, being in association with the subcultures of the British working class. Dr. Martens have been portrayed as a symbol of protest and rebellion, aligning with anti-establishment views, with the boots representing freedom of expression and individuality. However, since the growing of popularity of Dr. Martens, especially in recent years, they have become more mainstream, and their symbol of rebellion has been lost. The future of Dr. Martens is uncertain, but its history of origination is incredibly significant.
In post-war Munich, Dr. Klaus Marten wanted to create a shoe with an air-cushioned sole to support his previously broken foot. He partnered up with Dr. Herbert Frunk, and together they developed a prototype which later became a success. They began to sell the boot that they had invented, initially targeting the elderly generation. News of their success soon reached The Griggs family in Northamptonshire , who owned a shoe company of their own. After negotiations and business deals, they took over the production of the boot, helping transform the brand and its reputation as it is known today.
When the boot was first launched in the UK, no one knew how much of a impact it would have. Originally being made as a durable work boot for factory workers and the police force, subcultures soon adopted the boot as a symbol of rebellion, influenced by music, style and genre of the time. Musicians of the time played a huge role in developing and creating fashion trends that many people followed.
The Modernist movement of the 1950s, known as the Mods, was one of the first generations to choose Dr. Martens as their footwear. This was due to the influence of Pete Townshend, one of the first high-profile celebrities to wear Dr. Martens in a concert that he was performing at. This was seen by many as revolutionary, and people quickly copied his fashion choice. The Mods were known for their clean-cut fashion with polo necks, parkas, and, of course, a pair of Dr. Martens.
The 1960s then led to skinheads, who also adopted the Dr. Martens as well as bomber jackets and Levi jeans. The stigma surrounding skinheads has been centred around controversy, yet the original founding movement celebrated multiculturalism, with their fashion being inspired by the Jamaican rude boy style. The skinheads promoted belonging and community in society, sharing the same experience of being part of the working class.
Between the 70s to the 90s both punks and goths became a prominent subculture of the time, and they too were drawn to wearing Dr. Martens. Punks were influenced by the fashion icon Vivienne Westwood, as well as bands such as the Sex Pistols. The punk style demanded reform and change in society, adopting a unique and provocative style, becoming even more politicised. Punk fashion often included heavy work pants, torn shirts and hoodies, along with accessories that emphasised its rebellious expression. High-top Dr. Martens would then finish the look, often personalised with different coloured laces and thread. Goths also emerged from punk, embracing all-black outfits.
Dr. Martens went on to dominate the grunge movement that reached popularity in the 1990s. People in the movement opted to wear flannel t-shirts, thrifted-clothing, floral dresses and ripped jeans, with Dr. Martens complementing the look. The music scene of the time, with bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Alice in Chains, influenced the style and fashion of the era, and – in turn – Dr. Martens branched out into more mainstream fashion.
The company, however, faced the threat of bankruptcy in 2003 after moving the production of their boots to China and Thailand. The company fell under pressure, resulting in the closure of five factories in the UK, leading to many workers facing unemployment. Dr. Martens had to think quickly of ways to sustain their success and reinvent the brand to halt the decline in popularity. Ultimately, this effort proved to be successful as the brand regained worldwide satisfaction.
However, the demand for profit has resulted in increasing prices and mass production, which has impacted the durability and quality of Dr. Martens. Many people are now realising that the boots are not of the same quality as before, putting the reputation of the brand at risk. Even though Dr. Martens will continue to be purchased in the near future, people may become more distant from the cultural and historical impact the brand has had on history. For many, this could be seen as detrimental.